BRENDAN REGAN
PHOTOGRAPHY EXPEDITIONS

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INCA TRAIL - MACHU PICCHU

PERU - AUGUST 2004

Peru offered a wealth of experiences not soon forgotten. We immersed ourselves in the culture through documenting Spanish Cathedrals, Inca Temples, the cities of Cusco and Lima, hiking the Inca Trail, and ultimately reveling in the mystery of Machu Picchu. Below are some of the highlights of the itinerary, and one that may well become a repeated photographic expedition.

DAY 1. United States - Lima.

Arrived in Lima.

DAY 2. Lima / Cuzco

We flew to Cuzco, with its fascinating mix of Inca and colonial Spanish architecture. Visited the Koricancha or Temple of the Sun where we appreciated the incredible masonry of the Incas, the Plaza de Armas and the Cathedral with its carved woodworks, altars and painting.

DAY 3. Hike #1

Departed early in the morning from the hotel in Cuzco and traveled by train to Km 82 (9,072 ft). We soon arrived at Llactapata, a group of Inca terraces and sacred sites. We followed the River Cusichaca (Bridge of Happiness), and had views of Veronica Mountain (19,000 ft). We camped at Llulluchapampa (9,679 ft). 

The Incas, when they conquered the area, built a fort here since the site commanded an excellent view up and down the Urubamba valley.  This controlled the entrance to the Cusichaca valley.  It is a simple descent down to the Cusichaca river.  From parts of this trail there are great views of the Cordillera Urubamba (Urubamba Mountain Range) and the snow capped peak of Veronica.

From here we got get a great view over the extensive Inca ruins of Llactapata (also known as Patallacta on some maps).  Llactapata means "upper town" in Quechua and was first discovered by Hiram Bingham in 1911.  This was primarily an agricultural station used to supply Machu Picchu with maize, the staple crop of the Incas. The settlement comprised over one hundred buildings, houses for the workers and soldiers, including five baths.  

DAY 4. Hike #2 Wayllabamba to Pacamayo.

Climbed up from Wayllabamba following the left bank of
the Llulluchayoc river for about 1 hour that brought us to 'Tres Piedres' (three stones) and a small bridge over the Huayruro river. The stream is named after the Huayruro which is an ornamental tree. It's seeds are red and black. Many of the porters from the Ollantaytambo district are also known as Huayruros because of their traditional red and black ponchos!  A little further on we entered a beautiful cloud forest passing a waterfall.

A further three hours trek through woods and increasingly spectacular terrain brought us to the tree-line and a meadow known as Llulluchapampa (3,680m).  It is another 1-1/2 hour climb to the first and highest pass of the trail (Abra de Huarmihuanusca or Dead Woman's Pass) at 4200m.  During this part of the trail hikers are exposed to the Andean elements, first sun then closer to the pass cold winds.  This was the most difficult part of the trail so time to celebrate. The decent from the pass was steep although not difficult, following the trail on the left side of the valley to the valley floor and to the 2nd night's campsite at Pacamayo (3600m). 

DAY 5. Hike # 3 Pacamayo to Winay Wayna

From Pacamayo it took about an hour to climb up to the ruins of Runkaracay. These small circular ruins occupy a commanding position overlooking the Pacamayo valley below.  Another  45 minute hike brought us to the top of the second pass: Abra de Runkuracay (4,000m). We finally felt we were walking along the trail of the Incas, as most parts are original.  This section of the trail, up until the 3rd pass, is particularly beautiful as the path crosses high stone embankments and skirts deep precipices.  After about an hour from the 2nd pass we arrived at Sayacmarca by way of a superbly designed stone staircase. The name Sayacmarca means 'Inaccessible Town' and describes the position of the ruins perfectly protected on three sides by sheer cliffs. No one knows the exact purpose of these ruins.

From then on the path descends into magnificent cloud forest full of orchids, hanging mosses, tree ferns and flowers, passing through an impressive Inca tunnel, carved into the rock, on the way. The trail then climbs up to the 3rd pass (3,700m). The view from the pass offered excellent views of several snow-capped peaks including Salkantay (6,180m) and Veronica (5,750m). A few minutes after the pass is Phuyupatamarca, the most impressive Inca ruin so far.  The name means 'Town in the Clouds' .  Access to the ruins is down a steep flight of stairs passing six 'Inca Baths" probably used for the ritual worship of water.  Leaving the site via an impressive Inca staircase leading from the west side of the ruins (the far end of the baths) you descend a thousand or so steps.

Wiñay Wayna  (8, 695 ft) is the last official campsite before Machu Picchu. A short trail leaves the southern end of the hostel to the ruins of Winay Wayna.  The name in Quechua means 'forever young' and is named after a variety of pink orchid which grows here. The ruins comprise magnificent agricultural terraces set in an impressive location.  There are also many buildings of good quality stonework and a sequence of 10 baths, suggesting that the site was probably a religious center associated with the worship of water. Ritual cleansing may have taken place here for pilgrims on the final leg of the trail to Machu Picchu.

DAY 6. Hike # 4 Winay Wayna to Machu Picchu.

The trail from the hostel to Machu Piccchu is clearly marked and took about 1-1/2 hours.  The trail contours a mountainside and drops into the cloud forest before coming to an almost vertical flight of 50 steps leading up to the final pass at Intipunku (the Sun Gate).  Suddenly the whole of Machu Picchu (7,875ft) is spread out before you in all its glory - a fantastic sight to see.

Here we photographed Machu Picchu from the classic view point. We headed down to the local town, Aguas Calientes, and celebrated the fact that we survived the Inca Trail.

DAY 7. Machu Picchu

We returned early to Machu Picchu for a morning guided exploration. There was plenty of time for personal exploration and photographing along with climbing Wayna Picchu.  The additional choices for people explored included:

1.  Climb Huayna Picchu. Approximately 1 hour 40 minutes roundtrip. Spectacular view of Machu Pichuu known as the Condor view.

2. Exploring Machu Picchu on your own with plenty of time for photography.

3. Visiting Templo de la Luna (The Moon Temple) which is located beside the holy mountain of Huayn Picchu.  Roundtrip hike is approximately 1 hour 20 minutes.

4. Visiting an Inca Bridge.  This is a unique experience to see how the Incas constructed their bridges.

DAY 8.  Machu Picchu - Cuzco

We returned by train to Cuzco by train and bus back to our hotel in Cuzco.  Along the way we photographed small towns, ate some of the local delicacies, and reminisced about the adventure we had just experienced. That night we went to a restaurant specializing in Guinea Pig, one of the traditional foods in Peru. Some tried it, while others went a different route. You know the saying, it tastes like chicken.

We flew back to Lima and enjoyed a day in the country's capital. We went to the Museum of Archeology and Anthropology, enjoyed shopping for gifts, and photographing some of the people, architecture,and culture in one of the largest cities in the world.

DAY 10 Lima / United States.

Flew back home to the United States.

EMAIL BRENDAN REGAN AT BREGAN@REGANIMAGES.COM